During the conference I have heard murmurings of displeasure with the organization, complaints of incompetence, poor administration, and resignations that the above is to be expected in Africa. In the face of all this adversity, Mali should be applauded for its capacity to host such a large, important, international conference. As an African myself, I know what we lack in both technical and human capacity, we make up for in our ability to thrive in adversity. The road to success is turbulent but our determination to reach our final destination is strong and unyielding.
I think all the conference delegates can agree with me when I say the reception in Mali has been very warm and welcoming. We have been treated as royalty, from the VIP welcome on arrival at the airport to police escorts when we move around the various conference venues. The demeanor of the people is extremely open and friendly. My pathetic attempts to speak French has certainly kept our hosts and hostesses, conference organizers, taxi drivers, catering staff and security personnel amused. These courageous efforts of mine, I am sure are a great disappointment to my high school French teacher. But given the difficulties with language, we still manage to get around but maybe I owe this to the French speakers in the TropIKA team.
My family and friends have been calling and emailing me, asking me what is Mali like? I still have not comfortably come up with an accurate description of Mali, Mali is all things at once, a melting point of old traditions and modern technology. There is a strong Muslim element to Mali that can be seen in the mosques that dot the city, the attire of people in the streets, and least I not forget the early morning call prayers that remind me, I only have a few more hours sleep. I work in veil of air conditioned comfort and only experience the soaring temperatures when I make a quick dash to a meeting room. The heat and aridity does not support much in terms of vegetation but the wide highways are lined with palm trees giving Bamako a tropical ambience. The landscape is mainly flat which is dissected by the extensive Niger River and low lying hills can be seen in the background. When crossing the street, one has to be careful to check the left side of the road and keep a look out for the motorbikes wheezing around at great speed. It appears there are more motorbikes on the road than cars and they daringly move in between the traffic at break necking speed.
Bamako is a bright city not only because of the blaring sun but the beautifully colored attire that people wear. The female dress is majestic while the men’s is stately and imposing. The anniversary dinner at the National Museum last night, was a lavish display of culinary treats from across Mali. It was a wild adventure for my taste buds and a fascinating gastronomic experience far removed from the Western cuisine being served during the conference lunch. We have been treated to various musical displays during the opening ceremony and the anniversary dinner. Malian music is performed with both traditional and modern instruments. It is pleasing to the ear, rhythmic, melodic and hypnotic
All of this I have only been able to view from the window of my hotel room, taxis and buses, and experience within the confines of the conference centre. I look forward to my day off on Thursday when I will be able to trade my skirt and jacket for shorts and sneakers, grab my English-French book and explore the streets of Bamako. The guide book highlights the botanical gardens, prehistoric grottos with cave paintings, traditional “Pinasse” boat excursions, and Ali Baba style markets. Tomorrow, I will thoroughly immerse myself in the spirit of Mali, sample the food, dance to the music, fashion myself in local attire, and engage with the people.